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How Big Is The Market Space For Tailored Suits?

2010/9/18 8:52:00 70

Custom Tailored Suit


 

I saw the movie.

Million pounds

"People must remember this scene: the first thing that Gregory's actor played after" million pounds "was to rush into the tailor's shop and tailor a set of high-end dresses.

Gregory pike, who owns the dress, rose up with pride.


A set

Man's suit

For Gregory pike, it means that he has stepped into the "upper class" since then. No wonder people will spend millions or even tens of thousands of dollars to pay for a suit.


Last weekend, Kiton, a top custom clothing brand in Italy, quietly opened its counters at Hangzhou Tower. It opened the store less than a week ago. It has already received two businesses. Two guests came to the counter to customize 70 thousand yuan and 100 thousand yuan suits.


It is said that the counter

Custom tailor

Or "no price", more emboldened, the company has private collection of the world's top fabrics, if anyone is willing to pay 1 million yuan for suits, want to see fabric samples, the company can immediately from Italy by air.


In fact, before Kiton, Hangzhou already had Zegna, CANALI, CORNELIANI, Dunhill and other advanced customization brands, and has accumulated a lot of guests in the past few years.


Preliminary statistics show that in Hangzhou, about 1000 guests enjoy high-end customized services every year. The price of each suit is over 20 thousand yuan, while the price of some suits is about one hundred thousand yuan. If we calculate 20 thousand yuan for each suit, the high-end customized business will have a market share of at least 20 million yuan.

And insiders estimate that the market is growing by 20% per year.


The threshold of "luxury customization" is 20 thousand -7 yuan.


For many brands of top-grade clothing, the five thousand or six thousand yuan customization business is nothing at all. The so-called "luxury customization" is the lowest threshold of 20 thousand yuan.


Zegna, CANALI, CORNELIANI, Dunhill and other shops, spend 20 thousand yuan to customize a suit is a common thing, like Zegna's custom suits priced at around 30 thousand yuan, although 15%-20% is more expensive than clothing, but the guests are ready to order.

CANALI shop, 40 thousand -5 million is the main price of customization, including suits and trousers.


Before Kiton entered the Hangzhou market, the price of a more expensive suit would be about 100000 yuan in the Zegna counters, while the newly opened Kiton set a minimum threshold of 70 thousand yuan, and it was known as "no top price", which could be customized for the guests at a price of 1 million yuan.


"Since it's called" luxury customization, "it means that you need to satisfy the guest as long as it is needed.

Kiton shop owner said, the company has 250 tailors, all goods are tailor made by hand, and the annual output is only 18000 sets, Berlusconi, Prince Charles, Tom Curise, Ferrari global president and so on are their customers.


There are only 10 suits in the world.


In the second half of last year, the Zegna counters sold a suit of 180 thousand yuan. The shopkeeper said that the main reason is that the fabric of western style clothes is very rare. It is a very fine wool fabric, which is much better than the ordinary fabric.


Customization can sell tens of millions or even millions of prices, mainly depending on whether the fabric is unique.

For garment manufacturers, the most common and ordinary fabrics are commonly used in making garments, and those fabrics that are scarce and expensive are commonly used for "luxury customization".


Earlier, at a fabric auction in Europe, the only fabric in the world that was only 11.9 microns in diameter was bought by Kiton at auction, and is now kept in Kiton's headquarters.

Although Kiton did not disclose the specific auction price of the cloth, it was said that the cloth could only make 10 suits at most, because it was "too limited".


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"The fabric of Kiton ninety percent is bought and sold exclusively by the best fabric producers in the world. Some fabrics are rare or even rare in the world."

Kiton Hangzhou Tower store manager Lian Xin revealed that in addition to that top fabric, there was also a piece of Vicuna super fine wool camel hair, with a diameter of 12.9 microns and raw material from Peru. "In Europe, the scarf made of this fabric can be sold to two thousand or three thousand euros, and at present there is only one piece of cloth left to make 10 suits."

The shopkeeper said.


At present, Kiton Hangzhou Tower has two hundred or three hundred fabrics for guests to choose from. 14 micron and 13.9 micron fabrics are available. The smaller the diameter, the higher the price. Basically, each material is enough to make 30-40 suits.

If the guest wants to spend 1 million custom made suits, Kiton will also send someone to send 11.9 micron top fabrics for guests to experience.


The top European tailors average three or four trips to Hangzhou every year.


Two or three years ago, a European tailor could be invited to the shop on the first floor of the B block of Hangzhou Tower. It is a rare thing for us to get a European tailor, because there are few such opportunities. But in the past two years, almost all brands that make high-end customized services will invite European tailors to shop in the shops. For these European tailors, Hangzhou has also become a necessary stop for the tour service in China.


Around September 5th, the British brand Dunhill invited a British custom master to shop and tailor the guests.

"The tailor usually stays in the shop for 1-2 or two days. We will invite guests in advance, and then we will go to the store to enjoy the private service of the tailor."

Dunhill staff said that the British tailor has been here two times since the end of December.


Just this Tuesday, Kiton's Italy tailor came to Hangzhou.

It is said that this tailor is also one of the four "golden scissors" of the company, which can quickly understand the shape of the guests and record them immediately, and pmit the data directly to the company headquarters.


On October 7th -8, the Italy tailor of CANALI will also come by air to serve the guests.

It is said that "the average Italy tailor comes once a year, and many guests are waiting for him". Although they only come to a couple of days each time, they can serve more than 20 guests at a time.


In late October, CORNELIANI's Italy Division will also come to Hangzhou to provide services for guests, two times a year.

"Two years ago, the guests did not understand, and now there are more and more customized guests.

Miss Chen of CORNELIANI said.


The frequency of two times a year, brand is not enough, "the top European tailors come to Hangzhou more and more frequently. Like our shop, Italy tailors visit every three months to serve the guests."

Kiton, the shop keeper said.


It takes two or three months to spend tens of thousands of dollars on tailoring suits.


However, using tens of thousands of dollars to customize Western-style clothes is not just as simple as spending money. It takes at least two or three months to complete the paction process.


"Customers who want advanced customization services must have enough patience, otherwise they will not be able to make customized garments."

The staff said that these guests would like to take a long time to "wait". They began to wait until they came to Europe tailoring. After picking up the fabric, the European tailor took his measurements and sent the data back to Italy. The tailors began to sew them manually until they were pported back to Hangzhou again.


CORNELIANI services are relatively fast in several luxury brands, but at least 45 days from the size of the volume master to the final garment. CANALI takes about 50 days. The customization time of Zegna is not fixed. It takes about 45-60 days. The Kiton time is slightly longer. It takes two to two months to three months, while Dunhill has to wait at least three months.


It seems that tens of thousands of tailored suits can not be bought without money, and patience must be made.


1000 guests at least 20 million yuan high-end custom Market


This Tuesday, Kiton's "golden scissors" tailor came to Hangzhou to measure the volume of a foreign visitor. The guest selected a dark grey blue striped fabric, which was 14 microns in diameter, and paid for the suit worth 100 thousand yuan on the spot.

"At present, shops are just opening up, and there will be more customers when they are more abundant."

Kiton chief said.


Kiton has just opened a store for a week, and has not accumulated many customers for itself. For Zegna, CANALI, CORNELIANI counters, because of entering Hangzhou for many years, it has accumulated quite a lot of guests.

The staff of Zegna counters revealed that at least four hundred or five hundred guests were to be served in a year. On average, each guest would set a suit of about thirty thousand yuan, and some guests would even set two sets at a time.

CANALI and CORNELIANI also have one hundred or two hundred guests. CANALI's old customers choose 50 thousand yuan suits and two sets at one time.


According to preliminary statistics, there are 1000 customers who need "advanced customization" every year in Hangzhou market. If the price of each suit is 20 thousand yuan, there will be at least 20 million yuan of market capacity. Besides, some guests also set a about 100000 yuan suit at one time, so the 20 million market capacity is still conservative.


Insiders estimate that the demand for high-end customization will be bigger and bigger, and 20-30% growth will be maintained every year.

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