Men Wear No Men On This Week.
From London to Milan, old cards
Men's dress week
It is still hard to run year after year, but people who have been there have to doubt whether they have bought the wrong ticket or whether they are struggling with the trend of the times.
The men's wear brands are all gone. Look at the stern men on the T platform. What are they wearing? Apart from the above weird ones, the dragon's belly pocket, the trousers on the hip furrow, the Pleated Dress, the hollow lace and the Bobbi powder...
In this situation, it is no wonder that the Tucao players on the Internet have been crossing the border to fashion circles for a long time.
In recent years, the trend of "Niang Li Niu Qi" has swept through London, but we do not need to see anything strange. Everything has evolved and evolved.
You walk around the street, from scratch to your feet, and your waist is as thin as mosquitoes. You are often demoted as "pseudo mother" and "mother cannon", and they are not drilling out of the ground at the same time.
The designer of the sex mixture has long been active, but not as big as this year.
Two years ago, we saw that JilSander's spring and summer menswear or GiorgioArmani's autumn and winter menswear would feel that these old men's wear brands had a tendency to just soften: the old Armani followed the old upright men's dress and gray.
However, in the past, the edges and corners of the shoulders have been softly curved or slightly upturned, while JilSander has played tricks on colors, giving traditional men's colors, such as salmon flesh color, to men's clothing. Some of them are all salmon colored, and others are white with a salmon colored edge.
In addition, JilSander men's wear also has many long baggy trousers on the upper edge of the knee.
These are for men, but they are not pure.
Men's wear
It's not a pure dress. In my words, it's called "flexible men's clothing".
Its advantage is that it has broken through the boundaries of traditional men's clothing, blended in female elements, and did not rush to the extent of stimulation.
However, some of the updated brands are radical on the feminine road.
As the catfish effect shows, a fierce catfish will make the whole fish nervous. The one or two courageous designers will stimulate other colleagues.
According to my observation, fashion catfish should be the first J.W.Anderson.
The J.W.Anderson of Northern Ireland is still very young. He is very sharp and known to all. The art of the British Isles is very developed. He wanted to learn to perform. After learning for a while, he found himself more interested in the part of the non performance of the drama: dancing.
Later, he went to London to study menswear design.
Since joining the London Fashion week for the first time in 2008, he has played a game of disguising fetishism so that women can wear men's clothing and men wear women's clothing.
It's not easy to make people look fresh and natural, so that those who are really disguised are finding a bosom friend, rather than a whimsical designer who tries to match their eyeballs.
J.W.Anderson has definitely tasted sweetness in successive seasons.
In the autumn and winter of 2014, they continued to play this card.
This time, the models used by them are more masculine than those in spring and summer. They are more masculine than those in spring and summer. They have thick face, thick eyebrows and blue eyes, and thick body. Some of them have the contour of the pectoral muscle. But they wear it on the body. The shoulder shoulder arm long cloak, the princess sleeve colorful printing suit, the front neckline and the sleeves mouth decorated the lotus leaf shirt, the turtleneck with the black curled wide trousers, and the bucket, the bag and the thick sole shoes.
If you meet a man in his life, he exposes two shoulders and half breasts horizontally, and puts out a pair of bare legs from the shorts and pants that are fringed with fringes. He will keep chasing him until he can't see them.
Looking for gender mixing Aesthetics
However, they are not alone forerunners. JonathanSaunders, LeeRoach and so on also send out signals to imitate J.W.Anderson, and introduce the feminine overcoats and the hanging neck style back tops.
Coming back to look at the chaos this year, I think it is the result of a year's bedding.
For example, Sibling's 2015 autumn winter men's wear series is a blatant Pink: Pink hollowed sweater,
Pink fur coat
Pink socks, pink tie and so on, holding all kinds of Dolls - pink.
On the London Fashion Week, Sibling continued to "surprise" the whole audience: his family's model turned around and the groin was exposed.
XanderZhou is a Chinese. He did some hip-hop in the past few years. His performance is quite unexpected. His design is a dragon with the beginning of his tail. The colors are in Chinese gold, red and blue, with bright silk material, two thin harnesses hooking the thin shoulders of the model, and the clavicle is like the eyebrow of two failed paintings.
Although Facetasm is also easy to wear for men and women, it feels different from XanderZhou.
The models used by Facetasm are quite youthful, and even manly, but a few of them are all in a haired head, just like they just came out of the quilt.
The dress they wear is very loud, but the upper body is homogenous with no sleeves head jerseys, sports socks and fluorescent slippers. This is not a self confessed female gun, but also closer to the character of the college dorm.
There is a white lattice striped skew skirt, which is completely the curtain of the dormitory.
There are still a lot of works that can be omitted from the extreme flowers.
I strongly recommend DamirDoma, small white skirt, wide leg skirt pants, dress suit, pink long suit jacket cotton and linen suit color is relatively plain, with a large number of beige, these single products are not too strange to wear on male models, on the contrary, I think it is a kind of respect for men's taste for women.
The DamirDoma series reminds me of cocoa Chanel. People with common sense know that cocoa took the lead in putting on men's clothes, men's shirts, riding boots and breeches.
However, they are more jealous than fear because cocoa is the one they want to emulate without daring.
There was a boyfriend in women's clothing, which was officially launched from cocoa, and what BF shirts and BF jeans went into the women's wardrobe as real men's wear. The designer sniffed the trend and developed a large number of women's clothes that looked exactly like men's clothing to win the favor of those independent and individual women.
However, if cocoa's practice was shocking in the past, DamirDoma would not be able to get it, because people with J.W.Anderson, LeeCoach and other "Zhuyu" in advance were thought to be prepared, but on the other hand, DamirDoma showed that other radical brands were less serious. It was not just throwing out a few "pseudo mothers" on the T platform, but looking for a new gender mixing aesthetic, so that both men and women could accept it, and they could feel the friendly gaze from the other side.
Every man has his own aspiration.
If you go on a radical line, you will be tired if you go on for three years.
Looking at DamirDoma again this year, the novelty is not as good as in previous years. People who play tricks are more than he overdoes. Looking back at him, women's red shoes and nude pparent tops seem to be the natural continuation of the past two years.
On the contrary, he is more than CraigGreen. The models of his family pulls two long white cloth on the chest, as if he wore two rolls of flowers in May. He is also no match for Moschino and VivianWestwood. They both let men show their underwear, wear two hairy legs and a bare belly. In terms of scale and rigour, the whole series of Gucci's dance effect should be more respected than their bare men.
The water in the fashion industry will become more and more mixed. Then, many inspirational experts gathered in the art world will probably join in the costume design. The fancy clothes will only become more attractive. But in the 35 years, the "35 years" may be overestimated.
A poisonous comment commented that "men's clothes are not packed with men." however, it is also possible to expand the concept of "male" to the extent that they can tolerate some absolutely heterogeneous elements. If we look at the "disguise" and "pseudo mother" in a positive way, the dress of men's clothing week may really precipitate some valuable changes.
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